Arriving at Benjamin Rivera Noriega Airport in Culebra means nearby cities such as Ceiba, Fajardo, and San Juan are all within reach by ferry or a short hop, since this small island has no road link to the main island. Culebra moves at golf-cart speed. The one real town, Dewey, has a handful of cafes and dive shops, and most of the island is protected wildlife refuge, so the coastline stays wild and quiet.

What to do on Culebra: - Spend a day on Flamenco Beach, where an old rusted Navy tank sits half buried in the sand - Snorkel the reef at Tamarindo or Carlos Rosario, known for turtles and clear water - Take a water taxi to Culebrita for its ruined lighthouse and natural tide pools - Rent a jeep or golf cart and loop the hilly roads to Zoni and Playa Brava - Watch for nesting leatherback turtles in season with refuge volunteers - Kayak the calm channels of Ensenada Honda past moored sailboats - Order mofongo or fresh pinchos at a roadside stand in Dewey

Getting to and from Culebra is part of the fun. The ferry runs to Ceiba on the east coast of Puerto Rico, and from there San Juan and its old fortress walls are about an hour by car. Small planes also connect to San Juan and to neighboring Vieques, home of a bioluminescent bay that glows on moonless nights. Locals here measure time by the ferry schedule and the weather, and once you slow down to match them, you will understand why so many visitors come back to Culebra year after year.