Arriving in Dominica via Douglas-Charles Airport sets you up perfectly, with rainforest, hot springs, and fishing villages a short drive away. Dominica is the wild one of the Caribbean, a steep volcanic island with more rivers than roads and very little in the way of resort sprawl. Expect black sand, warm rain showers, and mountains that wear clouds most afternoons.

Where to spend your days on Dominica: - Hike to the Boiling Lake, a flooded fumarole deep in Morne Trois Pitons National Park - Stand under the twin cascades of Trafalgar Falls, then soak in the nearby hot pools - Take the short forest walk to Emerald Pool and swim beneath the falls - Snorkel Champagne Reef, where volcanic gas bubbles rise through the water - Head out on a whale-watching trip to look for the resident sperm whales - Row up the Indian River near Portsmouth through mangroves and bloodwood trees - Explore Fort Shirley in Cabrits National Park - Visit the Kalinago Territory on the east coast to learn about the island's Indigenous people - Walk a stretch of the Waitukubuli National Trail

The airport sits on the rugged northeast coast, so Portsmouth is under an hour away and the capital, Roseau, takes around 75 minutes on winding mountain roads. Roseau has the market, the botanic gardens, and the Creole cottages of the old town, while Scotts Head at the southern tip lets you see the Atlantic and the Caribbean meet. Dominica is an island, so going further means a ferry to Guadeloupe or Martinique. Time it for late October and you can catch the World Creole Music Festival, or order a bowl of callaloo soup any time of year and slow down to island pace.